Friday, March 2, 2018

How to Create a Simple Budget in Under 10 Minutes

Even though I’m a personal finance writer, I hate budgeting. So I’ve streamlined the process so you can create a simple budget in under 10 minutes.

a simple budget

I hate budgeting. I’ve tried using envelopes, Quicken, YNAB, and even fancy spreadsheets. The results are always the same. I start off strong, but within a few weeks, I lose interest in the time-consuming chore that budgeting can be.

The problem is that I still need to manage my money. So, what do I do?

I confronted this problem a few years ago, and asked myself the following question: how do I effectively manage my money in as little time and with as little pain as possible? To answer that question I came up with a money management plan that doesn’t require me to track all of my expenses every month, and requires a relatively small investment of my time. In this post, I’ll share my plan with you.

Before I get to the steps I take, it’s important to say that you should do what works best for you. You may need to track (or just feel more comfortable tracking) every dime you spend. That’s great if it works for you. You may also want to take my plan and modify it in ways to make it work better for your own finances.

Either way, budgeting should be viewed as a means to an end. Budgeting and money management are a way to allow us to spend and save our money in the most productive and efficient way possible.

If you need 100 expense categories to accomplish that goal, so be it. If you can do it with just 5 expense categories, great! It turns out that I use just one expense category most of the time. Here’s how:

Save First

You’ve heard the expression, “pay yourself first.” What this means is that you should first set aside a specific amount from each paycheck to be saved. Then, you can spend the rest. That’s what I do, and my budget looks like this (all percentages are based on gross income):

Savings: 15%

Spending: 85%

As long as I save 15% of my gross income and spend no more than 85%, I don’t typically care how much I spend on groceries or entertainment or electricity. Unfortunately, though, the fun can’t just stop there.

I have found at least three potentially significant problems with this simple approach.

  1. Failing to save as much as you comfortably can;
  2. Spending more than you planned to spend; and
  3. Getting whacked by periodic or unexpected expenses.

Recognizing these potential problems, I developed a simple approach to address each of them.

Resource: How to Develop the Habit of Spending Less Than You Make

Update: My wife and I now save about 70% of our income. It helps that our mortgage is paid off and we live a modest lifestyle compared to our income. I’ve also switched to Personal Capital’s free financial dashboard to manage everything from spending to our investments.

Failing to save as much as you comfortably can

How much money should you save? There’s no one right answer to that question. The goal is to achieve a reasonable balance between enjoying today and saving for tomorrow. For me that once meant saving between 10% and 20% of gross income. I view 10% as the absolute minimum goal and 20% as ideal for most individuals and families.

But what if I could comfortably save more? That’s one of the potential downsides to this simple budgeting plan. In and of itself, it doesn’t tell you how much you can reasonably and comfortably save.

To determine that number, I prepare a budget template. I use a simple Excel spreadsheet that divides my monthly expenses into three categories: (1) fixed expenses (e.g., mortgage, telephone, cable), (2) variable expenses (e.g., groceries, entertainment, clothing), and (3) periodic expenses (e.g., car and life insurance, gifts, vacations). The fixed and periodic expenses are easy to determine by looking at past bills. The variable expenses can take some time to pull together; if you religiously use a credit card like we do, though, the information is right there in your bank statement.

With this information plugged into my spreadsheet, I can get an idea of how much (or how little) I am able to save. I can also see how making adjustments to my spending will increase or decrease my savings. What I don’t do is track all of my expenses each month according to these categories. The template is there just as a guideline to determine how much I can reasonably save. If I’m not at 10%, I look for ways to trim expenses in one or more categories. I also look to see if I can reduce my expenses in some relatively painless way, in order to save even more.

*Check out some of my painless money-saving tips, which I will regularly update with new tips readers and other bloggers have sent in.*

You may be asking how I keep my expenses in check against this budget template, if I don’t track all my expenses each month. Good question! That brings us to problem #2.

Another Budgeting Strategy: The 50-20-30 budget is a popular way to control your spending.

Spending more than you plan to spend

So, you have a simple budget plan that calls for 10% savings, but you end up spending more than the 90% left over. This happens to all of us at times… but now what? But rather than going to the extreme and tracking every penny, I look at my expenses and determine what category (or categories) caused the most problems.

The problem expense areas are usually not a surprise to me. For us, it’s spending too much money eating out, buying too many clothes, or spending too much on the house.

I know these are our problem areas because I’ve been managing our money for 25 years. If you’re new to managing your money, it won’t take long for you to identify the two or three sticky areas in your budget. And here’s the point: track just those categories for a month. There’s no point in tracking expenses that aren’t causing the problem. Focus on the problem. You’ll spend a lot less time and you will direct your energy at the problem area(s) in your budget.

Learn More: 10 Guardrails That Will Keep You on the Road to Financial Freedom

Having tracked the problem areas for a month, you’ll have a better idea of why you’re spending more than you should. If it helps, put cash in an envelope for just these problem categories. When the cash is gone, you stop spending. Again, the point is to focus just on the problem areas of your monthly spending.

Getting whacked by periodic or unexpected expenses

It’s usually just when you think you’ve got control of your spending that the car insurance bill comes in the mail. In the past, this would drive me (no pun intended) crazy. Not anymore. For periodic expenses, I simply add them up over the course of a year, divide by twelve, and put that much into my online savings account each month. When the bill comes in, I transfer the amount from savings to checking and pay the bill. For us, our periodic expenses include the following:

  • Car Insurance (twice a year)
  • Life insurance (once a year)
  • Personal Property Tax (once a year)
  • Gifts (throughout the year, but mainly at Christmas)
  • Vacations (once a year)

For unexpected expenses, like a car repair, we use our emergency fund if we can’t include it in the monthly budget. Of course, we then have to add to our emergency fund, but that is what it’s there for.

Train Yourself: How to Keep One-Off Expenses from Breaking the Budget

As I said at the start, there is no one right way to budget. The best system to use is always the one that you will actually stick with.

For us, the simple approach is the best, and we’ve managed to control our spending quite well this way. If you use a different system, let us know what works for you!

Topics: Budget

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What is an SR-22 Form and How Do You Get One?

An SR-22 form is required in some states for some drivers. Here’s what you need to know about SR-22s and how to get one.

SR-22 form

You might think that with tax time in full swing, an SR-22 form is another one of those obscure deduction forms you need to keep on hand in case of an audit. Perhaps an SR-22 form is a signed affidavit allowing a piece of evidence into a jury trial? We probably could go on all day with the guessing game. But the fact of the matter is that an SR-22 form is something people carry to prove they are financially responsible and currently have the necessary auto insurance to operate a vehicle.

An auto insurance provider fills out your SR-22 form. Then they give it to the state and to you to prove that you have the proper insurance.

You might be thinking, “Wait a minute. I have car insurance, but I don’t have this form. Am I doing something wrong?”

Probably not. Not every insured motorist needs to have a copy of the SR-22 form. You’d most likely need to carry one if one of these three situations applies to you:

  1. You’ve been in an accident and couldn’t prove financial responsibility via insurance or self-insurance.
  2. You’ve been convicted at court for a traffic violation and couldn’t show you have the right insurance.
  3. A judge orders an SR-22 for some other reason.

Often reason number three applies if you’ve had your license suspended or revoked in the past, been convicted of multiple traffic offenses, or been convicted of a DUI or DWI.

Essentially, this step is an additional way for the state to ensure that you do, in fact, have the appropriate car insurance when you drive. If you’ve been ordered to carry an SR-22, you need to have it with you when you drive–just like your proof of insurance. Otherwise, you probably don’t need to worry about this form.

Requirements Vary By State

Car insurance is regulated at the state level. This means that SR-22 requirements vary from state to state. But if you do need an SR-22, you’ll receive notification from your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles/Bureau of Motor Vehicles via mail. You’ll generally have to maintain the SR-22 for three years, though you may need to maintain it for longer than that.

The key to the SR-22 is that if your insurance policy lapses, your insurance provider will immediately let the state now. They’ll then suspend your license until you’ve reinstated your car insurance.

This means that you could face more serious and immediate consequences than the typical driver who has allowed car insurance to lapse.

If you receive a notice that you need to maintain an SR-22, be sure you’re clear on all the requirements. Know how long you need to maintain the form, and understand what you’re responsible for while you maintain it.

How to Get an SR-22

You’ll have to contact your insurance provider to get an SR-22. Insurers charge a fee–typically between $15 and $25–to file the form. Your insurer will then send a copy of the SR-22 to the appropriate state department, and they’ll send a copy to you. With the SR-22 on file, your insurer will automatically let the state know if your insurance policy lapses.

Keep in mind that if you move to a new state, you’ll need to refile the SR-22 with your new state. You may also need to change your insurance policy at that time to meet your new state’s insurance liability minimums.

You’ll Need Insurance First

Filing the actual SR-22 form doesn’t cost much. But the form filing isn’t the expensive part. The expensive part is the insurance you’ll need to pay for if you’re required to file an SR-22. When you file this form, you have to maintain continuous car insurance coverage for the minimum time required. And that can be pricey if you’ve had the types of violations or accidents that got you into this situation in the first place.

If you don’t already have insurance, you’ll need to buy it when you file the SR-22. Depending on your driving history, this type of insurance can be quite expensive. But that’s the price you’ll pay for being able to get back on the road again legally.

If you want to save money on this insurance, try these tips:

  • Opt for the minimum. You’ll obviously have to meet you state’s minimum liability requirements in order to even get an SR-22. But choosing the minimum will keep your costs as low as possible.
  • Drive a paid-off car. If you owe money on your car, you’ll have to carry comprehensive car insurance coverage. This will basically pay off the lender if you total your vehicle. And it’s really expensive if you have a bad driving history. So it may be worth downgrading to a car you can pay cash for if you need to file an SR-22.
  • Shop around. Different insurance providers weight your driving history in different ways. While a bad driving history will always make your insurance more expensive, the difference will be less with some insurers. So be sure to get a few quotes before you purchase insurance.

Legitimate car insurance companies will be able to file an SR-22 for you. But before you file, shop around to get the best possible rate. And be sure to mention the SR-22 during the quoting process, as this form–outside of your actual driving history–will likely make your car insurance rate increase.

What If I Don’t Have a Car?

Even if you don’t have a car, you may want to file an SR-22 form. Having a driver’s license and the ability to drive occasionally can be important. And maintaining the SR-22 can help you get your license back in good time.

So if you want to get a NonOwners SR-22 policy, you can purchase a liability-only car insurance policy. This type of policy may be cheaper, since you’re only driving occasionally. But to get this type of policy, you can’t own a car or have a car in the household that you regularly drive. This type of policy will still be expensive. After all, you’re a risky driver at the moment. But it may be slightly cheaper than a regular liability policy with an SR-22 filing, since your annual mileage can be lower.

The bottom line is that if you need an SR-22, your insurance is going to cost more. But you’ll have to bite the bullet, file the paperwork, and maintain your insurance coverage for the required amount of time. Do that while driving safely, and hopefully you can see your insurance rates fall in a few years.

Topics: Insurance

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Thursday, March 1, 2018

SOLO District Phase 3 in Burnaby

SOLO District, will be releasing Phase 3 early this Spring. This highly anticipated third phase is the newest addition to the SOLO District neighbourhood, an already established master-planned community located in the true heart of Brentwood. Residents at SOLO District currently enjoy world-class shops, services, and amenities at their doorstep, including Whole Foods, Starbucks, BC Liquor Store, and Shoppers Drug Mart.

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SOLO District Phase 3 in Burnaby

SOLO District, will be releasing Phase 3 early this Spring. This highly anticipated third phase is the newest addition to the SOLO District neighbourhood, an already established master-planned community located in the true heart of Brentwood. Residents at SOLO District currently enjoy world-class shops, services, and amenities at their doorstep, including Whole Foods, Starbucks, BC Liquor Store, and Shoppers Drug Mart.

The post SOLO District Phase 3 in Burnaby appeared first on Vancouver New Condos.



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Earl by Vicni Homes in Vancouver

Earl by Vicni Home is a collection of six spectacular 3-bedroom Vancouver townhomes, just steps away from Slocan Park and 29th Ave Skytrain Station, surrounded by park amenities including the vibrant Slocan Park, Renfrew Ravine Park and Still Creek Community Garden. At 1,450 sf, the homes at Earl feature an open concept layout with chef-worthy kitchens and a large flex space for your growing family. The fabulous master retreat includes a spa-like ensuite, vaulted ceillings, and private decks with stunning North Shore mountain views.

The post Earl by Vicni Homes in Vancouver appeared first on Vancouver New Condos.



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Earl by Vicni Homes in Vancouver

Earl by Vicni Home is a collection of six spectacular 3-bedroom Vancouver townhomes, just steps away from Slocan Park and 29th Ave Skytrain Station, surrounded by park amenities including the vibrant Slocan Park, Renfrew Ravine Park and Still Creek Community Garden. At 1,450 sf, the homes at Earl feature an open concept layout with chef-worthy kitchens and a large flex space for your growing family. The fabulous master retreat includes a spa-like ensuite, vaulted ceillings, and private decks with stunning North Shore mountain views.

The post Earl by Vicni Homes in Vancouver appeared first on Vancouver New Condos.



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How to Cut Your Cable Bill By $180 (But Not Miss March Madness)

Love TV but hate your cable bill? We’ll show you how to easily cut your cable bill and potentially save a couple thousand dollars a year.

cut your cable bill

“Cutting the cord” has become all the rage. By that, of course, I mean the cable cord.

Maybe you want to cut your cable bill significantly so you can put more money towards debt. Or maybe you just want to offload the landline you never use. Either way, technology is making it easier to cut the cord, and the savings can be substantial.

I have thought about it for a long time, particularly when I receive my monthly “all-in-one” bill from the cable company. But there didn’t seem to be a viable option that included sports. And I just couldn’t bring myself to give up the live action. Until a couple of months ago, that is, when I talked to a good friend of mine who used to work at ESPN. Having built his career around sports, he is the biggest sports fan I know. He told me that he cut the cord two years ago and wished he had done it even sooner. I was floored!

He’s a Mets fan, and the Mets had just been in the playoffs and World Series! If he could do it, I could do it. So off I went.

Cutting out cable has been quite a journey, by turns fun, frustrating, vindicating, and a great learning experience. I recently made the leap, and when all was said and done, I cut my phone/cable/internet bill by $180 per monthjust in time for the big college basketball tournament.

You know, that one where games air on CBS, TNT, TBS, and Tru TV. What better way to test out life without cable sports than to cut the cord right before March Madness?

But here’s the thing: I didn’t miss a single game!

Here’s how I ended up doing it. It actually took me a while and several false starts. So learn from my mistakes, and follow these simple steps:

Step 1: Determine whether or not to keep a “landline.”

I’ve considered abandoning our landline for years.  We hardly use it, and we know lots of people who have gotten rid of theirs. Clearly, cutting the landline altogether is the right choice for some people.

But with a nine-year old in the house, I preferred to hang onto it for a while longer. Then, one day on the soccer field sideline, one of the other parents told me about the Ooma Telo. Ooma sells a voice-over-IP phone device ($79.99 on Amazon as of this writing). Then they give away local telephone service for free. All you have to do is pay applicable taxes. Inn my case, this amounted to $4.24 per month. This was the perfect solution for our needs.

If you do need to keep a landline for whatever reason, I’d recommend this option. It’s much cheaper than anything you’ll find with a local provider, even as part of a package deal.

Step 2 (if you’re keeping a landline and want to keep your existing phone number): Port your existing number to the new provider.

We could have picked a new phone number when setting up with Ooma, but we preferred to keep our existing number. There is a $39.95 fee for this. It can take a week or two, depending on the degree to which your existing provider is willing to cooperate. Once complete, we had transitioned our landline, and are now paying $4.24 per month for local phone service.

So to recap, we paid $79.95 for the device and $39.95 for the phone number transfer. For a total of just under $120, we got into a $4.24/month landline bill.

Step 3: Investigate and select your new TV landscape.

While I was waiting for my phone number to port over to Ooma, I turned my attention to TV. There are so many different choices out there and with lots of online reviews for each. Whether it is Roku, Apple TV, Netflix, Sling TV, Amazon Instant Video, or others, you may be surprised at the number of offerings at your disposal. In my case, I wanted to:

  • Watch NFL football;
  • See as much live sports as possible;
  • Maintain as much of my family’s favorite content as possible.

We already had a Netflix subscription. And our Amazon Prime subscription included access to Amazon Instant Video. So to round out our service, I did four things:

  1. Bought an antenna and embraced the world of free HD channels: There are lots of different antennas. Indoor vs. outdoor, amplified or not, different geographic capability. In my case, I chose the Mohu Leaf 50. I installed it in my attic, connected it to my existing cable line, and voila! ABC, NBC, CBS, Fox, and other over-the-air channels were at my disposal in pure, uncompressed HD. For free!
  1. Signed up for Sling TV: Sling TV is a streaming live TV service owned by Dish Network. For me, this was the key piece to the puzzle. Having the network channels was nice. But this didn’t provide enough access to sports. Sling TV fills in that gap to a degree. It provides access to ESPN, ESPN2, TNT, and TBS. In addition, its 20-channel “Best of Live TV” package includes HGTV, Food Network, CNN, Disney, and other channels. All for $20 per month, with no long-term commitment. I went ahead and signed up for the “Best of Live TV” package. But there is one catchyou need a device through which to stream the feed.
  1. Purchased an Amazon Fire TV Stick for each TV in the house*: This may or may not be necessary for you, depending on your existing setup and whether you want Sling TV. But in my case, I needed a device from which to stream Sling. And the Fire TV Stick worked just fine for me.
  1. Investigated alternative internet providers: This is where things got dicey. I knew that my cable company would not be cooperative when I called to drop cable TV and phone. So I wanted to know what my options were if I needed to switch to a different internet service provider. At first glance, the options weren’t great. There was a satellite internet provider, which I feared wouldn’t provide a strong enough signal to enable streaming. And there were DSL providers. But their user reviews were nearly as bad as my cable company’s. At first, I thought I was stuck with my current provider. But then I discovered that Earthlink provides broadband coverage in my neighborhood. Even better, they provide it using my current cable company’s infrastructure. So I could switch to Earthlink, get a low initial promotional rate, and settle into a more attractive long-term rate at the end of the promotional period. And I could do all of this without anyone coming to my house and without changing equipment. I’m still not sure how or why this was an option. But I pursued it, and it worked!

And with that, I said goodbye to the cable company.

*Note: After this article’s original release date in 2016, Amazon released a new version of its Fire Stick, the Amazon Fire TV. It supports 4K resolution and retails for $69.99. It also offers a bundle with an HD antenna for just $74.99. So if you have or are considering getting a 4K TV, you might just start with this bundle from the get-go.

The March Madness Trial-By-Fire

What better way to test out my new phone/cable/internet infrastructure than through the prism of March Madness? Since the games were on CBS (antenna), TBS (Sling), TNT (Sling) and Tru TV, I would be able to see 75% of the games.

But then imagine my delight when I realized on the first day of the tournament that March was “Tru TV free preview” month on Sling TV! A marketing promotional sure to delight new Sling subscribers who happen to be sports fans like me! As a result, I’ve watched every single game of March Madness that was important to me.

This setup has exceeded my expectations and then some. Honestly, I haven’t missed traditional cable for a single minute since making the switch.

Getting Down to Dollars and Cents

Making this transition involves some startup costs. Here is how my overall situation adds up:

  • One-time startup costs
    • Amazon Fire TV: $39.99 (per TV, unless you take it around the house with you)
    • Ooma Telo: $79.95
    • Mohu Leaf 50 TV Antenna: $69.95
    • Total: $189.89
  • Monthly cost before
    • Cable company all-in-one package: $246.78
    • Netflix: $7.99
    • Total: $254.77
  • Monthly cost after
    • Netflix: $7.99
    • Broadband internet access: $41.95 (after promotional offer expires)
    • Sling TV: $20.00
    • Ooma VOIP phone: $4.24
    • Total: $74.18

Total monthly savings: $180.59

Total annual savings: $2,167.08

Total annual savings invested over 10 years, earning 8%: $33,905

What I’ve Learned

Cutting the cord isn’t perfect, but for me it’s certainly worth it. Sling TV has a good picture, but you can’t change channels as fast as with regular cable. I don’t have a DVR (although there are similar devices available). And I can’t see the main local sports teams (in my case, the Red Sox, Celtics, and Bruins) unless they’re on a national broadcast. I will be able to see Celtics playoff games (on ABC, ESPN, TBS, and TNT). But I may be spending time at friends’ houses or the local sports bar if the Red Sox or Bruins make a deep playoff run.

But is this a price I am willing to pay to save over $2,000 per year? Absolutely! In the big picture, I’ve retained most of the value I got out of my previous package at a fraction of the cost. And I fully expect choices and service quality to improve over time. Who knows? In a couple of years, perhaps I’ll be able to purchase a Red Sox subscription for five or ten dollars per month!

I would gladly sign up for that, but for me, the days of car-payment-sized cable bills are over. I encourage you to give it a try!

Topics: Budget

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